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Made to order in Wool! 15th Century Houppelande/ Gown

Price:: $299.95

 

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Sizes and Fabrics:

 

 

 

 

  • Based on contemporary artwork
  • Available as made to order only in Wool
  • See our Fabric Selection page for available options
  • Select your size and fabric choice from the drop down menu and write in your preferred color choice in the comments box during checkout
  • Allow 3-4 weeks for delivery
  • Also see our in stock Linen and Brocade Houppelandes
  • No visible machine stitching
  • All interior seams finished
  • Comes with a contrast belt that is pinned in place to fit you exactly
  • Flattering and authentic fit with a neckline that can be worn 3 ways!
  • Two Sizes fits most and flatters any figure! Sizes 2/3 and 4/5
  • Price: $299.95
Our Linen Houppelande in Burgundy

About our Women's 15th Century Houppelande 

 

“My Lady, please, you must cover your hair!”

“Oh, Isabeau, you fussy old nursemaid, there is a veil attached to my hennin.”

“Yes, and it covers nothing at all! Your hair streams forth like a river. It is shameful.”

“Oh pish! Do you want me to look like a shriveled old frump? This is a tournament in honor of His Grace's nameday. All the great of Burgundy will be there! It is shameful if I do not catch their eyes!” Indeed, the entire Order of the Golden Fleece will be gathered, along with the many young knights and squires who hope to gain its notice through their feats of arms. But most importantly, and secretly, it is the eye of one young squire in particular that is of concern….

“Then at least pin shut your collar with a brooch. You wish to look a lady, not a strumpet!”

“And this is the fashion of a lady; did not Franz say so when he returned from Milan? Would a strumpet of a belt with a silver buckle fastened beneath her bosom?” Then again, fingering that silly Englishman's carnelian pin, wouldn't it be wise to let a certain Burgundian squire know he'd best not take things for granted? “All right, Isabeau, I see your point. Perhaps a brooch would be more appropriate…”

As a society in transition, the 15th century was if nothing else, a dramatic era, and this is reflected in its fashions. In the waning decades of the 14th century, a new style evolved as a direct contrast to the sleek, fitted women's cotehardie. This sumptuous gown was the houppelande, and in any ways represented the perfect marriage of three centuries of women's fashion. In this one garment, the voluminous, “angel-wing” sleeves of the 12th century combined with the loose body of the 13th, and the deep necklines of the 14th.Combined with a high-collar, full-train, an underdress, and a tall hat, or hennin, the end result was a stunningly elegant gown that is associated with the “fair damsel” to this day.

The houppelande continued to evolve throughout the 1400s, and we have chosen to reproduce a style that would have fashionable amongst courtiers and wealthy burghers throughout the second and third quarters of the 15th century. Based on primarily northern Italian and Burgundian sources, the two great fashion centers of the period, this style had a broad, international appeal, and can be found throughout England, France and the Holy Roman Empire. In honor of the garment's inherent elegance and sumptuousness, we are introducing our houppelande in natural brocade, in a dazzling array of jewel tones. With its deep neckline, wearing the houppelande over our simple, white, linen underdress protects milady's modesty, and gives the ensemble its finished look. We specifically designed the neck to be worn in 3 different styles (as shown below) either with collar folded down and flared out to show off your underdress and collar bones, with the collar stood up to its for height for an elegant silhouette suited to court dress or modestly pinned closed at the neck for yet a third look.

Our newest version of this gown is made in rich jewel tones with a contrasting belt and facing whose color shows when the collar is worn folded down. We designed this version to be unlined for the hot summer months out of cool linen that will keep you comfortable and looking regal all at once. A perfect garment to personalize by embroidering or block printing for that perfect, Duc de Berry look!

When we completed the prototypes for this gown we were amazed how women from “waif” to “rubenesque” could don the same garment and be instantly transformed into a lady of station and grace. When you try on yours, you'll instantly see why this may be the most stunning gown we have ever produced!

Read more about the 15th century in our Pen of History article here!

 

Photo Gallery 

 


Our Womens Linen Houppelande in Burgundy worn with a black Linen Kirtle and our Mens Houppelande worn with Knee Boots, Joined Hose, Decorated Belt and Chaperone Hat

 

Colors and Fabrics 

 

Note: Due to the difficulty of representing colors accurately on a variety of monitors we've included color descriptions along with our swatches. Please use both when deciding on what color to order. Also, despite how the colors may appear on your monitor the same color names in Wool, Silk and Linen are different and do not exactly coordinate.



Burgundy Tweed, Black/ White Tweed, Brown Tweed, Solid Brown, Oatmeal, Olive,
Navy, Pine Green, Red, Blue, Dark Green, Rust

 

Black/ White Tweed -a white and black herringbone twill 
Brown Tweed -a rich brown with flecks of gold and burgundy 
Solid Brown -a chocolate brown basket weave 
Blue -a true rich royal blue 
Burgundy Tweed -a deep wine color with flecks of Gold and Green
Rust- a medium burgundy, brick red color
Pine Green- a dark green with a bluish tint
Navy- a dark midnight blue 
Oatmeal -a natural heather in an un-dyed look
Olive -a solid in a deep, olive green


Size Chart 

 

Size Min. Chest Measurement Max. Chest Measurement
2/3 28" 41"
4/5 42" 52"

Note: In our women's clothes we've abandoned 'standard', modern sizing because it is far from standard, and tends to cause more confusion than provide accurate information. So, please judge your size by your bust measurements. For this gown we've given only the maximum bust size range because this style gives an extremely flexible and flattering fit - it really does fit and look great on most sizes. This style flares dramatically from the bust line so waist and hips measurements are not an issue with fit. Although it is made of yards of fabric with generous sizing the beautiful drape of the brocade and the matching belt allows for a flattering fit in your size. The belt is meant to be pinned at the center back to fit you exactly and then use the end of the belt to create a loose 'knightly knot' to cover the pinned portion. Our Houpplelande runs long so that you can wear it in the authentic fashion of the period - trailing along the ground or hem it to your desired length.

 

Our Design 

 

 

Historical Inspirations 

 

From a miniature of the Nine Heros in the Livre du chevalier errant by Thomas de Saluces in the Bibliotheque Nationale de France ms fr 12559 fol. 125 r/v, in Paris, France circa 1404 Drawing after wall painting by circle of Giacomo Jacuerio in the Great Hall of Castello di Manto in Piedmont, Italy circa 1411-16 Drawing after wall painting by circle of Giacomo Jacuerio in the Great Hall of Castello di Manto in Piedmont, Italy circa 1411-16
 
Drawing after detail of a fresco by Gregorio Franceschino in the Tomb Chapel in the Cathedral of San Giovanni Batista in Monza, Italy circa the first half of the 15th century   Drawing after wall painting by unknown painter in the Eagle's Tower in the Castello del Buon Coniglio in Trent, Italy circa 1406

 

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