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Women's Linen Sideless Surcoat

Price:: $139.95


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Surcoat Sizes and Colors:





  • Flattering cut widens shoulders and makes waist appear smaller
  • Based on contemporary artwork
  • Made in 100% Linen
  • Available in a medieval palette of jewel tones
  • Also available made to order in Wool and Linen Particolored
  • Neck and armhole finished with self bias edge and all interior seams finished
  • Stocked in two sizes (2/3 and 4/5) that coordinates with our gown sizes
  • Linen Colors: Gold, Dark Green, White, Burgundy, Purple, Bright Blue, Sage Green, Black and Red
  • Price - $139.95

Our Linen Surcoat in Dark Green worn with a Gold Kirtle , Linen Turret Hat, Barbette and Linen Oval Veil

About our Linen Surcoat 


The lady's sleeveless surcoat first appeared during the mid-13th century and was initially similar to the same garment worn by men over their armour. Within a few years a full train was added, Queen Eleanor, wife of Henry III of England, becoming so fond of the fashion that not only did it trail behind her, but the front was equally long, requiring her to carry the front of the surcoat in her hand or risk falling. An etiquette writer of the 13th century advised, "if the lady's feet and ankles be not small and delicate, let their robes fall onto the pavement to hide them; but those whose feet are beautiful may hold up the robe in front, under pretense of stepping out briskly."

By the first years of the 14th century the train had become far more manageable, particularly in the front, and the lines of the garment were further altered by widening and deepening the armholes. These trends continued with the increasing adoption of fitted dresses; by the mid-14th century, versions with and without trains existed, and the armholes had been cut low enough to show the hip belt worn under the surcoat on the gown below, emphasizing the female silhouette. The Church found the new fashion scandalous, some prelates dubbing the garment the "Gates of Hell" in honor of what its gaping sides did not cover. Seeing as the bodice of the surcoat only continued to grow narrower into the 15th century, the Church's concerns seemed to have had little impact on the ladies of high fashion.

Surcoats were made of any variety of fabrics and patterns - from simple linen and wool in solid colors to elaborately patterned silks, velvets and brocades; wealthy women often trimming or lining their garments with fur. Our full-length surcoats are based on historical artwork from the mid-14th century and are made of a single layer of mid-weight linen or wool with self bias edging on neck and armholes.


Photo Gallery 



Our Linen Surcoat in Blue worn with a Dark Green Kirtle


Colors and Fabrics 


Note: Due to the difficulty of representing colors accurately on a variety of monitors we've included color descriptions along with our swatches. Please use both when deciding on what color to order. Also, despite how the colors may appear on your monitor the same color names in Silk and Linen are different and do not exactly coordinate.


Linen colors: Black, Burgundy, Purple, Dark Green, Blue, Red, Sage and Gold


Burgundy -a rich, intense jewel tone
Purple -a royal purple
Dark Green -a deep forest green
Blue -a rich bright blue
Red -a true rich red
Sage- a lighter green in the olive family
Gold- a bright yellow gold


Size Chart 


Size Hip Measurement Length from Shoulder
Size 2/3 up to 49" / 124cm 57"/ 144cm
Size 4/5 up to 65" / 165cm 57"/ 144cm

Note: In our women's clothes we've abandoned 'standard', modern sizing because it is far from standard, and tends to cause more confusion than provide accurate information. So, please judge your size by your hip measurement. We do not give chest and waist measurements for this item because the large side openings allow for a good fit in a wide range of sizes. Please use the chart below as a guide to judge your size.


Our Design 



Historical Inspirations 


Drawing after a detail of the painted ceiling in the Hall of Justice c. 1354 in The Alahambra, Granada, Spain Drawing after an illuminated manuscript Royal MS 19.D.ii circa 1350 in the British Library, London, England Drawing after a 14th century illuminated manuscript MS Reg.2Bvii
Drawing after a14th century illuminated manuscript Royal MSS 20Cv. in the British Library, London, England Drawing after a 15th c. illuminated Bible Sloane MS 2433 in the British Library, London, England Drawing after a detail in the Coronation Book of Charles V of France c.1364-78 in the British Library, London, England

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