Clearance Sale! 14th-15th c. Mens 'Lancelot du Lac' Cotehardie

Our men's cotehardie is based on contemporary artwork, specifically the splendid examples in the Lancelot du Lac manuscript (circa 1380). This magnificently illustrated rendition of Chretien de Troyes' account of the quest for the Grail, was produced for the court of Bernarbo Visconti, Count of Milan, and it remains one the most cherished pictorial sources for fashion, arms, and armour in aristocratic courts of the late 14th century.

The cotehardies depicted in Lancelot are of a classic form that was particularly popular in northern Italy and France during the last quarter of the 14th century: short and closely fitted, with a long torso and a flare at the hips. There is a short, standing collar, distinctive to the last quarter of the century. The arms have a grand assiette arm-hole and are generously full to the elbow, at which point they significantly taper to follow the line of the forearm. The sleeve buttons from elbow to the cuff with cast, metal buttons, as is depicted in the manuscript. We have followed contemporary artwork by seaming the sleeve at the elbow and making the lower sleeve out of a contrasting color of fabric. This gives the garment a particularly distinctive, and dressier, look.

The Lancelot manuscript depicts the clothing of a royal court, and their real-world counterparts would have been cut and sewn to fit each customer. Because they are a very difficult garment to fit "off the rack", we have departed from what is illustrated in two instances, using other contemporary design elements to provide a more adjustable and comfortable fit. The first alteration is a small slit in the side seam of each hem, allowing a greater freedom of motion when sitting or walking. Similar examples can be seen in a variety of French, English and Italian sources, such as the Epistre au roi Richart of Phillipe de Mezieres (1395), and illustrated in the manuscript il Fior di Battaglia of Fiore dei Liberi (1409). The most notable example, and one of the earliest, is the surviving cotehardie or "pourpoint" of Charles of Blois (circa 1364).

Our other alteration is the garment's closure. While these are universally buttoned in the Lancelot manuscript, this again requires customers to either have a tailored garment, or to wear their cotehardie with a loose fit. Not satisfied with this, we have chosen to use the same front-lacing that has made our contemporary Agincourt Arming Cotte so popular with fighters, and allows a better fit for a wider variety of body-types. Although less-common with the aristocracy after mid-century, lacing was common amongst the gentry and knightly class well into the 1380s. Sources include the Coronation Book of Charles V (1365), Helie du Borron's Roman du roi Meliadus de Leonnoys (1362) and the Bible of Jean de Sy (1378). Front-lacing is also referred to textually in the household roles of Bernarbo Visconti (circa 1375) and the writing of Geoffrey Chaucer.

Our cotehardies are available in linen with a linen contrast lower sleeve. All edges are finished or fully enclosed, improving both aesthetics and durability. Most seams of the cotehardies are fully enclosed with French seams, for a finished look while worn open. As was done in the 14th century, the cotehardie can be worn alone over a linen shirt, or beneath a houpelande. Note: Because of the short skirts, we recommend that the cotehardie be worn with our joined hose.

Our Lancelot du Lac Cotehardie in Blue w/ Gold Sleeves worn with a Wool Hood, Cotton Joined Hose, Ribbon Garters and Ankle Boots Our Lancelot du Lac Cotehardie in Dark Red w/ Gold Sleeves worn with a Linen Coif, Cotton Joined Hose, Ribbon Garters, and Ankle Boots

Our Lancelot du Lac Cotehardie in Dark Red w/ Gold Sleeves worn with a Linen Coif, Cotton Joined Hose, Ribbon Garters, and Ankle Boots

She's wearing our Lancelot du Lac Gown in Blue w/ Gold Sleeves with a Linen Hood in Soft Gold and Leather Gloves. He's wearing our Lancelot du Lac Cotehardie in Blue w/ Gold Sleeves with a Burnt Orange Chaperone, Decorated Belt, Cotton Joined Hose, Ribbon Garters, Leather Gloves and Turnshoes